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EXPENSIVE MISTAKES
TO AVOID
- Never mix any petroleum products including chemical
dyes used in acrylic/petroleum paints with linseed oil products.
Allback linseed oil paint is
made with natural pigments only.
- Avoid acrylic / petroleum paints, specifically for windows
because the petroleum acrylic paint do not adhere to glass and
will fail very quickly. Linseed oil
paint can be applied onto the linseed oil glazing the same
day and adheres to glass very well. Linseed oil paint is the only
paint on the market that can be maintained with organic boiled
linseed oil over time.
- Add zinc white in the linseed oil paint if you live in
a hot and humid climate. Zinc
suspended in the organic boiled linseed oil will speed up
drying and create a harder surface that is easier to clean.
- Don’t try to add any zinc powder (from another source)
in linseed oil as this will separate over time. Only use the zinc
white already suspended in the Allback purified organic boiled
linseed oil in the linseed oil paint.
- Wet seasons can increase the chance of dirt buildup.
Clean surface with linseed oil soap
EXTRA. Microfiber cloth with some linseed oil soap extra and
some water can be effective to clean the linseed oil painted surface.
- The Allback glazing putty can be painted right away with
the linseed oil paint. Always paint with the linseed oil paint
onto the glass about 1/8" when you are restoring old windows with
the linseed oil paint. By painting onto the glass you will increase
the seal, preventing waters from standing along the glazing
putty edge and possibly freezing. This can cause the glazing
putty to separate prematurely.
- MAINTENANCE OF THE LINSEED OIL PAINTED SURFACE. When
the linseed oil painted surface looks dry, wipe some of the organic
boiled linseed oil onto the surface to restore sheen. Use
a clean cotton rag. (Soak rags in water and hang up after use).
Never use regular linseed oil from a paint store because it is
a chemical and will cause mildew over time. You can add a small
amount of the zinc white to the linseed oil for maintenance as
well.
- Mixing dry pigment into the linseed oil paint or the
linseed oil glazing will separate over time as organic linseed
oil as well as dry pigment have very high surface tension and
do not mix well.
- Old type plaster and priming Old type plaster made with
lime may not hold the Allback shellac
primer, therefore do a test first. Most likely, you can apply
the linseed oil emulsion paint directly on the surface for any
interior lime plaster surface. Add 20% water into the exterior
linseed oil paint. Use a high speed mixer (linseed oil and water
have high surface tension and must be mixed well). Apply the emulsion
linseed oil paint with a brush. The linseed oil emulsion is excellent
for any stone and concrete surfaces exterior as well as interior.
- Avoid zinc white for interior plaster walls. Zinc and
old lime plaster will react and create a blooming reaction. This
was well known in the old days. Frank Lloyd Wright actually used
zinc on plaster to create that specific effect.
- Do not use Chlorine for cleaning. The combination of
Chlorine and hydrocarbons is known as the Organochlorine family
of compounds. It is presently sold and used in great quantities
throughout the commercial world. Although most Organochlorine
compounds are produced intentionally, they can also be produced
unintentionally. Dioxins, one of the most deadly family of compounds
known to man, are created when chlorine bleaches are used to treat
lumber or pulps and also during incineration of other compounds.
The family of Organochlorines include many famous chemicals now
banned or restricted, such as DDT, Chlordane, Mirex, Dieldrin,
Heptaclor, all the PCB's and other ozone-disrupting CFC's. Organochlorine
do not break down easily. They are remarkably persistent and long
lasting. Studies show that Organochlorine can last for decades,
hundreds, even thousands of years. Hundreds of millions of pounds
of these substances are released into the environment annually.
Biologically speaking, these solvents, fungicides, pesticides,
and refrigerants are waste from the very moment they manufactured.
They can’t be incorporated into the life cycle of any organism
on earth. They are not biologic, but toxilogic. They are building
up in the environment and steadily accumulating in our water,
food and in our bodies. Because they are not breaking down in
water, they accumulate in the fatty tissues of organisms.
Read more in: The Ecology of Commerce by Paul Hawken.
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